You can use a solution of TSP on the walls (wear rubber gloves) this will take the smoke ';oil'; vapor off the wall. If you have popcorn or stipple ceiling, you can't go over it with TSP, however alot of the smell is in there so it will have to be painted.. Do the ceiling first. with ceiling paint. As a help to reduced the odor, in the can of latex ceiling paint add a half bottle of vanilla extract. That will help to offset the cigarette odor and paint odor. Use the other half in the latex wall paint and plan on 2 coats of paint with overnight to dry between the coats. (Actually, that is the way I would go for the ceiling too) So, paint the ceiling and the walls one day and do it again the next day.How do i remove cigarette smoke/tar from indoor painted walls so that i can paint them?
I thought sure I had all ready posted on this. I will try again.
I used the Dark Dawn detergent on our walls and used a sponged wax mop to wash them down. Then I rinsed them. It took the stain right off. Dawn detergent is a very cheap household cleaner.How do i remove cigarette smoke/tar from indoor painted walls so that i can paint them?
Use TSP. It's a detergent that you can find in the paint section. It's what the pros use. A large sponge will make the work easier.
wash the walls down with TSP and buy special primer to get rid of the smell of smoke
Sunday, February 21, 2010
I'm painting an indoor parking garage - concrete walls?
I have a few questions on this...
1 - 75% of the wall space is in excellent condition but there are parts that are flaking with whatever was on there previously...how do I smooth that flaking surface? ...sanding or otherwise?
2 - There is another part of the concrete wall that looks like pieces of the concrete have chipped away in chunks, maybe a little bit less than an inch deep on the wall. How do I refinish/smooth that concrete surface to be smooth?
3 - I have to price the job itself. The area is about 21,000 square feet..maybe a 60-70 car indoor parking garage. There are 24 structure columns to paint as well but they are all in good shape and can be painted easily. How do I price this job?
Thanks!I'm painting an indoor parking garage - concrete walls?
Here is what you do:
#1. Figure up the exact square footage of the wall surfaces you need to paint. Go to a professional paint store such as Porter Paints, Sherwin Williams and tell them what you are painting, which is concrete. Have them figure up the gallons of paint you will need. Buy in 5 gallon pails. Ask for a contractors discount on all materials.
#2. For a good job I would powerwash the walls and columns. Ask the same paint store for a good cleaning solution to power wash these items with. You also could possibly rent a power washer off of them.
#3. Price the paint for the steel columns also.
#4. Check the garage (job site) to make sure you have water source to power wash, and electrical outlet to run compressor if you plan to spray on the paint on the concrete/steel.
#5. Are there going to be cars in the garage, or is the owner of the garage going to give notice to those parking there that the garage is to be closed during this painting? This is a big deal for you. You can't make good time if cars are close to the walls and columns. I can guarantee you someone is going to complain about dirt and or paint on their car - so check this out first before you give them a price.
#6. Is there a place to store your materials on the job?
#7. You can fill the concrete spalls with mortar mix but first prime the holes with a bonding agent such as *thorobond. Let it dry than take a small margin trowel and apply mortar mix to the hole-smooth out let dry - do this after you powerwash the walls.
#8. To price the job figure how long it will take you to round up all the materials and equipment and transport it to the job. Then estimate how long it will take to set up powerwasher and wash all the walls and columns/rinse also. Now figure the hours it will take to patch the spalls or impressions in the concrete walls. Now figure how long it would take you to spray or roll paint on all the walls. *Include time to put dropcloths over any cars close by.
#9. Now you have to paint 24 columns. Can you paint one column in 2hrs? Picture yourself painting one column - how long will it take you. Now just multiply that x 24 to get man hours. Each day you must pick up and clean up the jobsite - add 1 hour each day just for getting stuff ready and putting it away at the end of the day.
#10. Now take the total cost of your materials with tax. Multiply that by 20% then add the 20%. You have to make money on materials.
Then take your total man hours you already figured x $25 per hour. Now add 15% to cover overhead such as gas,taxes,fidc,medicare,workmens comp,*even if you don't pay these things most of your competitors do so add it in.
Now after you add your 15% to your labor take that total x 10%, this is your profit for the job.
Now add your materials with markup, to your total labor cost to get a grand total. This is the price you write on your proposal.
*State everything that you are going to do on this job. The more items you list, the more detailed your proposal looks = a more professional image.
* check out if the cars are going to be in the garage , this is a big thing.
Good LuckI'm painting an indoor parking garage - concrete walls?
ted ruski got it right but dont patch with mortar, use portland cement and masons sand and mix it stiff and force into the spalls...
Extremely obvious you have no (zero) experience in this. Get someone that knows what they are doing to assist with this one or else you are going to lose your shirt. Surface prep is the most important part of the job. The two problems you mentioned are just a couple of the dozen or more you will run into getting the surface ready for paint. HINT: parking garages walls and ceilings get greasy dirty from car exhaust, you have to clean all this off or the paint will not stay on. Actual painting is probably less than 1/3 to 1/4 of the actual job. You need an adviser to help choose the different ways of cleaning that you will need to do.
1 - 75% of the wall space is in excellent condition but there are parts that are flaking with whatever was on there previously...how do I smooth that flaking surface? ...sanding or otherwise?
2 - There is another part of the concrete wall that looks like pieces of the concrete have chipped away in chunks, maybe a little bit less than an inch deep on the wall. How do I refinish/smooth that concrete surface to be smooth?
3 - I have to price the job itself. The area is about 21,000 square feet..maybe a 60-70 car indoor parking garage. There are 24 structure columns to paint as well but they are all in good shape and can be painted easily. How do I price this job?
Thanks!I'm painting an indoor parking garage - concrete walls?
Here is what you do:
#1. Figure up the exact square footage of the wall surfaces you need to paint. Go to a professional paint store such as Porter Paints, Sherwin Williams and tell them what you are painting, which is concrete. Have them figure up the gallons of paint you will need. Buy in 5 gallon pails. Ask for a contractors discount on all materials.
#2. For a good job I would powerwash the walls and columns. Ask the same paint store for a good cleaning solution to power wash these items with. You also could possibly rent a power washer off of them.
#3. Price the paint for the steel columns also.
#4. Check the garage (job site) to make sure you have water source to power wash, and electrical outlet to run compressor if you plan to spray on the paint on the concrete/steel.
#5. Are there going to be cars in the garage, or is the owner of the garage going to give notice to those parking there that the garage is to be closed during this painting? This is a big deal for you. You can't make good time if cars are close to the walls and columns. I can guarantee you someone is going to complain about dirt and or paint on their car - so check this out first before you give them a price.
#6. Is there a place to store your materials on the job?
#7. You can fill the concrete spalls with mortar mix but first prime the holes with a bonding agent such as *thorobond. Let it dry than take a small margin trowel and apply mortar mix to the hole-smooth out let dry - do this after you powerwash the walls.
#8. To price the job figure how long it will take you to round up all the materials and equipment and transport it to the job. Then estimate how long it will take to set up powerwasher and wash all the walls and columns/rinse also. Now figure the hours it will take to patch the spalls or impressions in the concrete walls. Now figure how long it would take you to spray or roll paint on all the walls. *Include time to put dropcloths over any cars close by.
#9. Now you have to paint 24 columns. Can you paint one column in 2hrs? Picture yourself painting one column - how long will it take you. Now just multiply that x 24 to get man hours. Each day you must pick up and clean up the jobsite - add 1 hour each day just for getting stuff ready and putting it away at the end of the day.
#10. Now take the total cost of your materials with tax. Multiply that by 20% then add the 20%. You have to make money on materials.
Then take your total man hours you already figured x $25 per hour. Now add 15% to cover overhead such as gas,taxes,fidc,medicare,workmens comp,*even if you don't pay these things most of your competitors do so add it in.
Now after you add your 15% to your labor take that total x 10%, this is your profit for the job.
Now add your materials with markup, to your total labor cost to get a grand total. This is the price you write on your proposal.
*State everything that you are going to do on this job. The more items you list, the more detailed your proposal looks = a more professional image.
* check out if the cars are going to be in the garage , this is a big thing.
Good LuckI'm painting an indoor parking garage - concrete walls?
ted ruski got it right but dont patch with mortar, use portland cement and masons sand and mix it stiff and force into the spalls...
Extremely obvious you have no (zero) experience in this. Get someone that knows what they are doing to assist with this one or else you are going to lose your shirt. Surface prep is the most important part of the job. The two problems you mentioned are just a couple of the dozen or more you will run into getting the surface ready for paint. HINT: parking garages walls and ceilings get greasy dirty from car exhaust, you have to clean all this off or the paint will not stay on. Actual painting is probably less than 1/3 to 1/4 of the actual job. You need an adviser to help choose the different ways of cleaning that you will need to do.
Question about painting my Indoor Pool Room/Exercise Room. Here's the problem..?
The problem is that I'm a DYI-er. I dont want to call someone to come paint something I can do myself. My question is :
Everything I've painted my Indoor Pool/Exercise Room, After about 2-3 months I get these grey patches on my all...Sometimes when I place my hand on the wall a few days later the same place i placed my hand turns into this smoke grey patch. You can't really see it directly at once but once you turn the light on or the sun hits my wall you can cleary see all the patches. Could this be mold?Question about painting my Indoor Pool Room/Exercise Room. Here's the problem..?
Initial impression is its mold, but I have a few questions. By Pool, do you mean swimming pool or pool table? Is this in a basement? Is it air conditioned? Exterior or interior walls? Drywall or concrete block? If you spray chlorox/water solution on it, does it go away?
Everything I've painted my Indoor Pool/Exercise Room, After about 2-3 months I get these grey patches on my all...Sometimes when I place my hand on the wall a few days later the same place i placed my hand turns into this smoke grey patch. You can't really see it directly at once but once you turn the light on or the sun hits my wall you can cleary see all the patches. Could this be mold?Question about painting my Indoor Pool Room/Exercise Room. Here's the problem..?
Initial impression is its mold, but I have a few questions. By Pool, do you mean swimming pool or pool table? Is this in a basement? Is it air conditioned? Exterior or interior walls? Drywall or concrete block? If you spray chlorox/water solution on it, does it go away?
Is it safe indoor semi gloss paints during pregnancy?
Do you mean is it safe for you to paint with indoor seimi gloss paint? Yeah it is I asked my dr this question during my pregnancy. We were remodeling when I got pregnant and I ended up painting 3 rooms throughout my pregnancy.Is it safe indoor semi gloss paints during pregnancy?
I painted my 5 y/o daughter's room during my last pregnancy. Just make sure you ventilate the room well. The fumes make me a bit nauseous, but there is little or no effect on your baby. Always confer with you OB/GYN just to be sure.Is it safe indoor semi gloss paints during pregnancy?
Yes it is I have been glossing the doors and I am 24 weeks pregnant
look i dont know who you people have for doctors it is NOT SAFE the paint has fums that have been known to make pregnant wemen go into premature labor.and my source is my sister in law who had a preme while painting the inside of her house with semi gloss interior
I used to work for a OB doctor and she would tll her pts. that is is fine as long as you have good ventilation going through the room-make sure to open windows and wear a mask
It's safe. Just have a lot of ventilation and if you feel whoozy, take a break and get some fresh air.
any kind of paint isn't really a good idea to be around when you are pregnant. It is just best not to be around it when someone is painting just in case. It is better to be safe than sorry.
Absolutely...just make sure to crack some windows so that you are not breathing in all the pain fumes
It smells but it isn't toxic. I would worry more about making you feel nausea.
I painted my 5 y/o daughter's room during my last pregnancy. Just make sure you ventilate the room well. The fumes make me a bit nauseous, but there is little or no effect on your baby. Always confer with you OB/GYN just to be sure.Is it safe indoor semi gloss paints during pregnancy?
Yes it is I have been glossing the doors and I am 24 weeks pregnant
look i dont know who you people have for doctors it is NOT SAFE the paint has fums that have been known to make pregnant wemen go into premature labor.and my source is my sister in law who had a preme while painting the inside of her house with semi gloss interior
I used to work for a OB doctor and she would tll her pts. that is is fine as long as you have good ventilation going through the room-make sure to open windows and wear a mask
It's safe. Just have a lot of ventilation and if you feel whoozy, take a break and get some fresh air.
any kind of paint isn't really a good idea to be around when you are pregnant. It is just best not to be around it when someone is painting just in case. It is better to be safe than sorry.
Absolutely...just make sure to crack some windows so that you are not breathing in all the pain fumes
It smells but it isn't toxic. I would worry more about making you feel nausea.
Indoor latex painting with spray gun?
I have a 1/2hp spray gun system that I'm thinking about using to paint my living room. Is this overkill, will cause me more pain then use?
I was thinking that the alternative would be to buy a 50 buck airless paint sprayer and use that for all the trim work and then use a roller for bulk of the walls.
Problem is that there is a lot of crown molding etc that I can't get at will the roller and I don't want to spend days using a brush on it so I want some kind of power based alternative.Indoor latex painting with spray gun?
It will take more time to spray the room with an airless than it would to brush and roll.
Airless sprayers are good if you are in a new construction situation where there is not a lot of masking off. Even in a new construction situation, you wouldn't go to the airless unless you are going to spray 10 or 15 gallons of paint. The airless is a production tool for applying larger quantities of paint. Don't bother for the 3-4 gallons you will need for the living room.
Just so you are aware- you not only have to mask off for direct overspray - but indirect overspray. Atomized paint from an airless will float in the air and drift all over the house.
The $50 cup guns are also airless sprayers, not HVLP (high volume low pressure), and you will have similar overspray issues to deal with - with them also.
I would brush and roll the room.Indoor latex painting with spray gun?
Brush and roll only
Take the time and effort to do it right. You won't regret it.
If it was me I'd get an HVLP High Volume Low Pressure system, that's what I would use for crown molding, inside corners etc. You can get a good system for about half what you plan to spend but the little one I have is fine for use around the house.
The old fashioned (to me) high pressure systems allow too much overspray, wasting paint and are just a big mess to deal with.
Your idea to roll the bulk areas is a good one. Do NOT go cheap on brushes and rollers, the cheap stuff do a crummy job and gets paint all over the place.
Wrap your brushes, rollers and trays with saran wrap if you are going to use them again within a couple days, saving lots of time on cleanup.
I've also found the cloth type drop cloths to be the way to go as apposed to paper or plastic (easier to deal with and last a heck of a lot longer) when your through with them and drops have dried, fold them up and store for next time, you know there will be again. They come in handy for other things too like protecting areas or furniture when remodeling or moving. They don't take up that much room.
I was thinking that the alternative would be to buy a 50 buck airless paint sprayer and use that for all the trim work and then use a roller for bulk of the walls.
Problem is that there is a lot of crown molding etc that I can't get at will the roller and I don't want to spend days using a brush on it so I want some kind of power based alternative.Indoor latex painting with spray gun?
It will take more time to spray the room with an airless than it would to brush and roll.
Airless sprayers are good if you are in a new construction situation where there is not a lot of masking off. Even in a new construction situation, you wouldn't go to the airless unless you are going to spray 10 or 15 gallons of paint. The airless is a production tool for applying larger quantities of paint. Don't bother for the 3-4 gallons you will need for the living room.
Just so you are aware- you not only have to mask off for direct overspray - but indirect overspray. Atomized paint from an airless will float in the air and drift all over the house.
The $50 cup guns are also airless sprayers, not HVLP (high volume low pressure), and you will have similar overspray issues to deal with - with them also.
I would brush and roll the room.Indoor latex painting with spray gun?
Brush and roll only
Take the time and effort to do it right. You won't regret it.
If it was me I'd get an HVLP High Volume Low Pressure system, that's what I would use for crown molding, inside corners etc. You can get a good system for about half what you plan to spend but the little one I have is fine for use around the house.
The old fashioned (to me) high pressure systems allow too much overspray, wasting paint and are just a big mess to deal with.
Your idea to roll the bulk areas is a good one. Do NOT go cheap on brushes and rollers, the cheap stuff do a crummy job and gets paint all over the place.
Wrap your brushes, rollers and trays with saran wrap if you are going to use them again within a couple days, saving lots of time on cleanup.
I've also found the cloth type drop cloths to be the way to go as apposed to paper or plastic (easier to deal with and last a heck of a lot longer) when your through with them and drops have dried, fold them up and store for next time, you know there will be again. They come in handy for other things too like protecting areas or furniture when remodeling or moving. They don't take up that much room.
Indoor trim and molding painted black.?
Is this a new trend (instead of white) and do you like it?Indoor trim and molding painted black.?
Sure.why NOt? If you live in the Adams Family house. Why would you want to paint your trim and moulding black for any other reason than becuase you are bored? Try something else...some color that actually needs creatice thinking to make work.Indoor trim and molding painted black.?
I've never personally seen it, but I think it's a pretty cool idea. You may even think about painting them some other color...a dark blue...ooh, or even a brick red! :o)
No I do not like it. I myself like the nutcharl look of wood for the trim, I hate painted trim.
I did mine six years ago.
Sounds very, very ugly. It will look dated in no time. I don't recommend it.
as a painting contractor who works with designers on a daily baisis I can say with certianty that it is not a new trend , and is usually used in ultra contemporary homes,and then only in certian cases,and rooms where there is need for a large sense of drama.myspace songs
Sure.why NOt? If you live in the Adams Family house. Why would you want to paint your trim and moulding black for any other reason than becuase you are bored? Try something else...some color that actually needs creatice thinking to make work.Indoor trim and molding painted black.?
I've never personally seen it, but I think it's a pretty cool idea. You may even think about painting them some other color...a dark blue...ooh, or even a brick red! :o)
No I do not like it. I myself like the nutcharl look of wood for the trim, I hate painted trim.
I did mine six years ago.
Sounds very, very ugly. It will look dated in no time. I don't recommend it.
as a painting contractor who works with designers on a daily baisis I can say with certianty that it is not a new trend , and is usually used in ultra contemporary homes,and then only in certian cases,and rooms where there is need for a large sense of drama.
Best paint/primer/polyurethane for an indoor plywood table?
I am painting a plywood table blue with white stripes.
How would you suggest to go about my work. The table is staying inside, but will see a lot of moisture and liquid.
I plan on applying polyurethane to 'waterproof' the wood and make it slick and durable. Any tips/advice there?Best paint/primer/polyurethane for an indoor plywood table?
Use oil-based kilz-it as your primer and apply with small sponge roller. Let dry and paint the whole thing white with your white paint(2 coats). When that dries tape off for your blue stripes using blue painter's tape. Paint the edges of the tape on the side that will be blue with your white paint. Thiss will prevent the blue from bleeding onto the white side. Wait 30 minutes or so until the white paint is dry and paint your blue stripes. After second coat remove the tape. Let paint cure for 24 hours.
Seal with a water-based poly in your choice of sheens. Wait about an hour between coats and apply at least 3. 1 quart of poly should be enough. Place brush in a ziplock bag between coats to keep it from drying out.
Oil-based poly will yellow with light so be sure to use a water-based.
How would you suggest to go about my work. The table is staying inside, but will see a lot of moisture and liquid.
I plan on applying polyurethane to 'waterproof' the wood and make it slick and durable. Any tips/advice there?Best paint/primer/polyurethane for an indoor plywood table?
Use oil-based kilz-it as your primer and apply with small sponge roller. Let dry and paint the whole thing white with your white paint(2 coats). When that dries tape off for your blue stripes using blue painter's tape. Paint the edges of the tape on the side that will be blue with your white paint. Thiss will prevent the blue from bleeding onto the white side. Wait 30 minutes or so until the white paint is dry and paint your blue stripes. After second coat remove the tape. Let paint cure for 24 hours.
Seal with a water-based poly in your choice of sheens. Wait about an hour between coats and apply at least 3. 1 quart of poly should be enough. Place brush in a ziplock bag between coats to keep it from drying out.
Oil-based poly will yellow with light so be sure to use a water-based.
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