i want to paint my bedroom walls but over the years there has been 5 layers of paint and 1 layer was a mural so everything is uneven and need ugly, what should i do ?Indoor painting question ?
Trying to sand this is a waste of time and may be hazardous depending on wether or not there was any lead paint in any of the previous layers.If your mural was done with acrylic artist's paint(tubes) this stuff is rather soft and stretchy and can clog your sandpaper easily and be tough as the devil to sand down(oil paint too!).You are much better off changing the drywall.Indoor painting question ?
Wash down the walls. Then lightly sand. Dust them down and then put on a layer of kilz or binz before you paint. When you put on the primer have it tinted in a shade a little lighter than what you are going to use.
you may not like this...sand, sand, sand like a fool. wear a particle mask and eye protection and sand the walls smooth, then you can paint them...there usually is no need for a primer or sealer if the walls have been previously painted and have not water damage and there is no nicotine coating them.
Sand until you have a flat surface.
You could scrape and sand until you have a smooth surface. Messy, time-consuming, but you'll be happy about the result. Be sure to use a good primer before you paint.
Or, you could plaster the walls. It would be worth the money to have a professional do this.
Sunday, February 21, 2010
Indoor painting question?
I am painting my kitchen a bright apple green. It's currently the typical eggshell. There is caulking all around the counters etc. (where the wall meets the counter). My question is: Do I paint right up to the counter , over top of the caulking? And if so, do I have to re-do the caulking over it? Or do I stop just before the white caulking and leave the white line?
The caulking itself is in good shape so it's purely asthetics.
Thanks!Indoor painting question?
Hi,
it's more of a prefference, however if it's silicone caulking then you cant paint over it.
The caulking itself is in good shape so it's purely asthetics.
Thanks!Indoor painting question?
Hi,
it's more of a prefference, however if it's silicone caulking then you cant paint over it.
Question about painting my Indoor Pool Room/Exercise Room. Here's the problem..?
The problem is that I'm a DYI-er. I dont want to call someone to come paint something I can do myself. My question is :
Everything I've painted my Indoor Pool/Exercise Room, After about 2-3 months I get these grey patches on my all...Sometimes when I place my hand on the wall a few days later the same place i placed my hand turns into this smoke grey patch. You can't really see it directly at once but once you turn the light on or the sun hits my wall you can cleary see all the patches. Could this be mold?Question about painting my Indoor Pool Room/Exercise Room. Here's the problem..?
Have you tried a heavy duty primer underneath your paint? If so, it could be the type of paint you're using. Question about painting my Indoor Pool Room/Exercise Room. Here's the problem..?
Could this be mold?yes it could be do you have a vent the moisture out for the pool if yes check it . and the paint you want to use a high moisture paint or Marine paint to stop the look
Everything I've painted my Indoor Pool/Exercise Room, After about 2-3 months I get these grey patches on my all...Sometimes when I place my hand on the wall a few days later the same place i placed my hand turns into this smoke grey patch. You can't really see it directly at once but once you turn the light on or the sun hits my wall you can cleary see all the patches. Could this be mold?Question about painting my Indoor Pool Room/Exercise Room. Here's the problem..?
Have you tried a heavy duty primer underneath your paint? If so, it could be the type of paint you're using. Question about painting my Indoor Pool Room/Exercise Room. Here's the problem..?
Could this be mold?yes it could be do you have a vent the moisture out for the pool if yes check it . and the paint you want to use a high moisture paint or Marine paint to stop the look
Is indoor ACRYLIC painting bad for the respiratory?
Is indoor acrylic painting bad for the respiratory system?Is indoor ACRYLIC painting bad for the respiratory?
I don't think breathing any paint fumes is good. My mom gets dizzy after an hour of fumes.
I'd have an open window. I always do when I paint. Or a really large room.
Also, painting outside is always lovely!
I don't think breathing any paint fumes is good. My mom gets dizzy after an hour of fumes.
I'd have an open window. I always do when I paint. Or a really large room.
Also, painting outside is always lovely!
Indoor painting question ?
i want to paint my bedroom walls but over the years there has been 5 layers of paint and 1 layer was a mural so everything is uneven and need ugly, what should i do ?Indoor painting question ?
You could strip off the old paint but that could be a big expensive job.I would use a flat finish paint and roll it on with a texture roller.These come in various finishes and patterns.This will hide most of your uneven spots...Indoor painting question ?
real simple first you sand the walls so that there are no bludges in the walls. then you prime it so you cover up the horrible lloking stuff and then after the paint dries , you paint however you want.
Go to your local hardware or paint store and ask for a primer to even everything out (they are usually pretty thick). Then you can paint on top of the primer as normal.
You could never hand sand that stuff off, and any mechanical method would end up eating into the paper face of your sheetrock, causing a bigger problem.
I use drywall compound (mud) and an 8'; - 12'; blade to smooth it on. Work small areas at a time. When it's dry, I feel it for hollow places or high spots and add or remove (sand) as necessary.
When I'm happy with it, I give it an all-over light sanding, then prime and paint it.
I would give a light sand on rough spots made only by bad paint application, if you use putty or mud, over a large area, it will never be flat and smooth. So just smooth out any ridges or drips or texturizing previously done to it, apply a coat of primer, then two coats of the desired color in acrylic.
easy fix try ralph lauren river rock paint its textured and covers great!!!
that's be a nightmare to try to make those walls perfectly flat again....so you could think about going for a really rough imaginative texture like this: http://www.uniquetextures.com/00281.htm
be sure to rough up any semigloss surfaces
Below are the step-by-step directions that you requested. They are for normal walls, which you don't have. You need to follow the section on applying tape compund or spackle more carefully. The only way to deal with the uneveness is to use the compound at a leveler. Use a wide knife so that you can see how even it is coming out. If they have 12 inch knives, that could be helpful.
If there's not too much unevenness you night try sanding the high spots with 100grit sandpaper then use Spackle to fill in any damage you do then use 150 grit to finish sand the Spackle then prime and paint. If the walls are really bad I'd do what's called a skim coat which means spackling over the whole wall, than sanding flat then priming and painting,this is obviously a lot more work but it will solve the problem. There's a third method which involves going over the walls with a paintable wallpaper, this essentially puts an entirely new face on the walls, again this is more work but would make for a really nice job.
sand smooth then paint
Lowe's and home depot carry wall texture (comes in a spray can) that will mask the uneven texture that is there now. Once it is dry, then you can paint over it. It looks very nice once it is all done and finished. I dont know how badly uneven your walls are, but this stuff is pretty good for masking stuff like that - its worth looking into anyway.
Hope this helps.
you should remove the old paint, either with paint stripper or remover. may even have to do some sanding this is gonna be a long annoying process not to mention messy...good luck with this one
well in order to get rid of the texture left behind from the muraal you'll have to skim coat the wall with joint compound sand and then prime and paintmyspace songs
You could strip off the old paint but that could be a big expensive job.I would use a flat finish paint and roll it on with a texture roller.These come in various finishes and patterns.This will hide most of your uneven spots...Indoor painting question ?
real simple first you sand the walls so that there are no bludges in the walls. then you prime it so you cover up the horrible lloking stuff and then after the paint dries , you paint however you want.
Go to your local hardware or paint store and ask for a primer to even everything out (they are usually pretty thick). Then you can paint on top of the primer as normal.
You could never hand sand that stuff off, and any mechanical method would end up eating into the paper face of your sheetrock, causing a bigger problem.
I use drywall compound (mud) and an 8'; - 12'; blade to smooth it on. Work small areas at a time. When it's dry, I feel it for hollow places or high spots and add or remove (sand) as necessary.
When I'm happy with it, I give it an all-over light sanding, then prime and paint it.
I would give a light sand on rough spots made only by bad paint application, if you use putty or mud, over a large area, it will never be flat and smooth. So just smooth out any ridges or drips or texturizing previously done to it, apply a coat of primer, then two coats of the desired color in acrylic.
easy fix try ralph lauren river rock paint its textured and covers great!!!
that's be a nightmare to try to make those walls perfectly flat again....so you could think about going for a really rough imaginative texture like this: http://www.uniquetextures.com/00281.htm
be sure to rough up any semigloss surfaces
Below are the step-by-step directions that you requested. They are for normal walls, which you don't have. You need to follow the section on applying tape compund or spackle more carefully. The only way to deal with the uneveness is to use the compound at a leveler. Use a wide knife so that you can see how even it is coming out. If they have 12 inch knives, that could be helpful.
If there's not too much unevenness you night try sanding the high spots with 100grit sandpaper then use Spackle to fill in any damage you do then use 150 grit to finish sand the Spackle then prime and paint. If the walls are really bad I'd do what's called a skim coat which means spackling over the whole wall, than sanding flat then priming and painting,this is obviously a lot more work but it will solve the problem. There's a third method which involves going over the walls with a paintable wallpaper, this essentially puts an entirely new face on the walls, again this is more work but would make for a really nice job.
sand smooth then paint
Lowe's and home depot carry wall texture (comes in a spray can) that will mask the uneven texture that is there now. Once it is dry, then you can paint over it. It looks very nice once it is all done and finished. I dont know how badly uneven your walls are, but this stuff is pretty good for masking stuff like that - its worth looking into anyway.
Hope this helps.
you should remove the old paint, either with paint stripper or remover. may even have to do some sanding this is gonna be a long annoying process not to mention messy...good luck with this one
well in order to get rid of the texture left behind from the muraal you'll have to skim coat the wall with joint compound sand and then prime and paint
How do i remove cigarette smoke/tar from indoor painted walls so that i can paint them?
You can use a solution of TSP on the walls (wear rubber gloves) this will take the smoke ';oil'; vapor off the wall. If you have popcorn or stipple ceiling, you can't go over it with TSP, however alot of the smell is in there so it will have to be painted.. Do the ceiling first. with ceiling paint. As a help to reduced the odor, in the can of latex ceiling paint add a half bottle of vanilla extract. That will help to offset the cigarette odor and paint odor. Use the other half in the latex wall paint and plan on 2 coats of paint with overnight to dry between the coats. (Actually, that is the way I would go for the ceiling too) So, paint the ceiling and the walls one day and do it again the next day.How do i remove cigarette smoke/tar from indoor painted walls so that i can paint them?
I thought sure I had all ready posted on this. I will try again.
I used the Dark Dawn detergent on our walls and used a sponged wax mop to wash them down. Then I rinsed them. It took the stain right off. Dawn detergent is a very cheap household cleaner.How do i remove cigarette smoke/tar from indoor painted walls so that i can paint them?
Use TSP. It's a detergent that you can find in the paint section. It's what the pros use. A large sponge will make the work easier.
wash the walls down with TSP and buy special primer to get rid of the smell of smoke
I thought sure I had all ready posted on this. I will try again.
I used the Dark Dawn detergent on our walls and used a sponged wax mop to wash them down. Then I rinsed them. It took the stain right off. Dawn detergent is a very cheap household cleaner.How do i remove cigarette smoke/tar from indoor painted walls so that i can paint them?
Use TSP. It's a detergent that you can find in the paint section. It's what the pros use. A large sponge will make the work easier.
wash the walls down with TSP and buy special primer to get rid of the smell of smoke
I'm painting an indoor parking garage - concrete walls?
I have a few questions on this...
1 - 75% of the wall space is in excellent condition but there are parts that are flaking with whatever was on there previously...how do I smooth that flaking surface? ...sanding or otherwise?
2 - There is another part of the concrete wall that looks like pieces of the concrete have chipped away in chunks, maybe a little bit less than an inch deep on the wall. How do I refinish/smooth that concrete surface to be smooth?
3 - I have to price the job itself. The area is about 21,000 square feet..maybe a 60-70 car indoor parking garage. There are 24 structure columns to paint as well but they are all in good shape and can be painted easily. How do I price this job?
Thanks!I'm painting an indoor parking garage - concrete walls?
Here is what you do:
#1. Figure up the exact square footage of the wall surfaces you need to paint. Go to a professional paint store such as Porter Paints, Sherwin Williams and tell them what you are painting, which is concrete. Have them figure up the gallons of paint you will need. Buy in 5 gallon pails. Ask for a contractors discount on all materials.
#2. For a good job I would powerwash the walls and columns. Ask the same paint store for a good cleaning solution to power wash these items with. You also could possibly rent a power washer off of them.
#3. Price the paint for the steel columns also.
#4. Check the garage (job site) to make sure you have water source to power wash, and electrical outlet to run compressor if you plan to spray on the paint on the concrete/steel.
#5. Are there going to be cars in the garage, or is the owner of the garage going to give notice to those parking there that the garage is to be closed during this painting? This is a big deal for you. You can't make good time if cars are close to the walls and columns. I can guarantee you someone is going to complain about dirt and or paint on their car - so check this out first before you give them a price.
#6. Is there a place to store your materials on the job?
#7. You can fill the concrete spalls with mortar mix but first prime the holes with a bonding agent such as *thorobond. Let it dry than take a small margin trowel and apply mortar mix to the hole-smooth out let dry - do this after you powerwash the walls.
#8. To price the job figure how long it will take you to round up all the materials and equipment and transport it to the job. Then estimate how long it will take to set up powerwasher and wash all the walls and columns/rinse also. Now figure the hours it will take to patch the spalls or impressions in the concrete walls. Now figure how long it would take you to spray or roll paint on all the walls. *Include time to put dropcloths over any cars close by.
#9. Now you have to paint 24 columns. Can you paint one column in 2hrs? Picture yourself painting one column - how long will it take you. Now just multiply that x 24 to get man hours. Each day you must pick up and clean up the jobsite - add 1 hour each day just for getting stuff ready and putting it away at the end of the day.
#10. Now take the total cost of your materials with tax. Multiply that by 20% then add the 20%. You have to make money on materials.
Then take your total man hours you already figured x $25 per hour. Now add 15% to cover overhead such as gas,taxes,fidc,medicare,workmens comp,*even if you don't pay these things most of your competitors do so add it in.
Now after you add your 15% to your labor take that total x 10%, this is your profit for the job.
Now add your materials with markup, to your total labor cost to get a grand total. This is the price you write on your proposal.
*State everything that you are going to do on this job. The more items you list, the more detailed your proposal looks = a more professional image.
* check out if the cars are going to be in the garage , this is a big thing.
Good LuckI'm painting an indoor parking garage - concrete walls?
ted ruski got it right but dont patch with mortar, use portland cement and masons sand and mix it stiff and force into the spalls...
Extremely obvious you have no (zero) experience in this. Get someone that knows what they are doing to assist with this one or else you are going to lose your shirt. Surface prep is the most important part of the job. The two problems you mentioned are just a couple of the dozen or more you will run into getting the surface ready for paint. HINT: parking garages walls and ceilings get greasy dirty from car exhaust, you have to clean all this off or the paint will not stay on. Actual painting is probably less than 1/3 to 1/4 of the actual job. You need an adviser to help choose the different ways of cleaning that you will need to do.
1 - 75% of the wall space is in excellent condition but there are parts that are flaking with whatever was on there previously...how do I smooth that flaking surface? ...sanding or otherwise?
2 - There is another part of the concrete wall that looks like pieces of the concrete have chipped away in chunks, maybe a little bit less than an inch deep on the wall. How do I refinish/smooth that concrete surface to be smooth?
3 - I have to price the job itself. The area is about 21,000 square feet..maybe a 60-70 car indoor parking garage. There are 24 structure columns to paint as well but they are all in good shape and can be painted easily. How do I price this job?
Thanks!I'm painting an indoor parking garage - concrete walls?
Here is what you do:
#1. Figure up the exact square footage of the wall surfaces you need to paint. Go to a professional paint store such as Porter Paints, Sherwin Williams and tell them what you are painting, which is concrete. Have them figure up the gallons of paint you will need. Buy in 5 gallon pails. Ask for a contractors discount on all materials.
#2. For a good job I would powerwash the walls and columns. Ask the same paint store for a good cleaning solution to power wash these items with. You also could possibly rent a power washer off of them.
#3. Price the paint for the steel columns also.
#4. Check the garage (job site) to make sure you have water source to power wash, and electrical outlet to run compressor if you plan to spray on the paint on the concrete/steel.
#5. Are there going to be cars in the garage, or is the owner of the garage going to give notice to those parking there that the garage is to be closed during this painting? This is a big deal for you. You can't make good time if cars are close to the walls and columns. I can guarantee you someone is going to complain about dirt and or paint on their car - so check this out first before you give them a price.
#6. Is there a place to store your materials on the job?
#7. You can fill the concrete spalls with mortar mix but first prime the holes with a bonding agent such as *thorobond. Let it dry than take a small margin trowel and apply mortar mix to the hole-smooth out let dry - do this after you powerwash the walls.
#8. To price the job figure how long it will take you to round up all the materials and equipment and transport it to the job. Then estimate how long it will take to set up powerwasher and wash all the walls and columns/rinse also. Now figure the hours it will take to patch the spalls or impressions in the concrete walls. Now figure how long it would take you to spray or roll paint on all the walls. *Include time to put dropcloths over any cars close by.
#9. Now you have to paint 24 columns. Can you paint one column in 2hrs? Picture yourself painting one column - how long will it take you. Now just multiply that x 24 to get man hours. Each day you must pick up and clean up the jobsite - add 1 hour each day just for getting stuff ready and putting it away at the end of the day.
#10. Now take the total cost of your materials with tax. Multiply that by 20% then add the 20%. You have to make money on materials.
Then take your total man hours you already figured x $25 per hour. Now add 15% to cover overhead such as gas,taxes,fidc,medicare,workmens comp,*even if you don't pay these things most of your competitors do so add it in.
Now after you add your 15% to your labor take that total x 10%, this is your profit for the job.
Now add your materials with markup, to your total labor cost to get a grand total. This is the price you write on your proposal.
*State everything that you are going to do on this job. The more items you list, the more detailed your proposal looks = a more professional image.
* check out if the cars are going to be in the garage , this is a big thing.
Good LuckI'm painting an indoor parking garage - concrete walls?
ted ruski got it right but dont patch with mortar, use portland cement and masons sand and mix it stiff and force into the spalls...
Extremely obvious you have no (zero) experience in this. Get someone that knows what they are doing to assist with this one or else you are going to lose your shirt. Surface prep is the most important part of the job. The two problems you mentioned are just a couple of the dozen or more you will run into getting the surface ready for paint. HINT: parking garages walls and ceilings get greasy dirty from car exhaust, you have to clean all this off or the paint will not stay on. Actual painting is probably less than 1/3 to 1/4 of the actual job. You need an adviser to help choose the different ways of cleaning that you will need to do.
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