I live in Ontario Canada and am looking fot the average cost per sq ft for painting of interior walls. Thanks.Average cost per square foot for indoor house painting?
Since the cost of paint and the cost of labor will vary from contractor to contractor, the best thing to do is call around and ask how much they charge. If you're planning on doing it yourself, calling around to local paint companies and asking about price and approximate square footage per gallon will be your best bet. But always remember, cheaper is very rarely better.
Friday, February 26, 2010
What are some unique indoor wall painting techniques?
Leather Faux-finish
Marble Faux-finish
Suede Faux-finish
Silk Faux-finish
...there are tons of them, and they make regular paint so much nicer looking! Try this website for diy tips.
http://www.how-to-faux-finish.com/faux-f鈥?/a>What are some unique indoor wall painting techniques?
Venetian Plaster is really beautiful and easy to do. You can use a practice board to try a few techniques and see what works for you. It gives the walls an old world, aged plaster look.
Aside from that you can put on a coat of latex in a color of your choice. Next, mix a slightly lighter or darker shade of the same color with glazing liqid and sponge lightly over the primary coat. You can go for a washed look or a stippled look. The key to making it subtle is to use similar shades of the same color.
Marble Faux-finish
Suede Faux-finish
Silk Faux-finish
...there are tons of them, and they make regular paint so much nicer looking! Try this website for diy tips.
http://www.how-to-faux-finish.com/faux-f鈥?/a>What are some unique indoor wall painting techniques?
Venetian Plaster is really beautiful and easy to do. You can use a practice board to try a few techniques and see what works for you. It gives the walls an old world, aged plaster look.
Aside from that you can put on a coat of latex in a color of your choice. Next, mix a slightly lighter or darker shade of the same color with glazing liqid and sponge lightly over the primary coat. You can go for a washed look or a stippled look. The key to making it subtle is to use similar shades of the same color.
I used rust prevention indoor/outdoor spray paint on my charcoal grill.Is this safe?
William is correct. An auto parts will carry different hi temp paints. Engine paint is good up to about 500 degrees. Header paint is good to 1500 degrees, and will work very well for a grill. Hope this helps.I used rust prevention indoor/outdoor spray paint on my charcoal grill.Is this safe?
yes as long as you did not paint the inside.
it will burn off again, so next time go to an auto store and get some high heat paint,
wire brush it down then paint it.I used rust prevention indoor/outdoor spray paint on my charcoal grill.Is this safe?
It won't harm you but it wil bake off. You need to use a heat resistant paint next time.myspace songs
yes as long as you did not paint the inside.
it will burn off again, so next time go to an auto store and get some high heat paint,
wire brush it down then paint it.I used rust prevention indoor/outdoor spray paint on my charcoal grill.Is this safe?
It won't harm you but it wil bake off. You need to use a heat resistant paint next time.
Sunday, February 21, 2010
Indoor painting question ?
i want to paint my bedroom walls but over the years there has been 5 layers of paint and 1 layer was a mural so everything is uneven and need ugly, what should i do ?Indoor painting question ?
Trying to sand this is a waste of time and may be hazardous depending on wether or not there was any lead paint in any of the previous layers.If your mural was done with acrylic artist's paint(tubes) this stuff is rather soft and stretchy and can clog your sandpaper easily and be tough as the devil to sand down(oil paint too!).You are much better off changing the drywall.Indoor painting question ?
Wash down the walls. Then lightly sand. Dust them down and then put on a layer of kilz or binz before you paint. When you put on the primer have it tinted in a shade a little lighter than what you are going to use.
you may not like this...sand, sand, sand like a fool. wear a particle mask and eye protection and sand the walls smooth, then you can paint them...there usually is no need for a primer or sealer if the walls have been previously painted and have not water damage and there is no nicotine coating them.
Sand until you have a flat surface.
You could scrape and sand until you have a smooth surface. Messy, time-consuming, but you'll be happy about the result. Be sure to use a good primer before you paint.
Or, you could plaster the walls. It would be worth the money to have a professional do this.
Trying to sand this is a waste of time and may be hazardous depending on wether or not there was any lead paint in any of the previous layers.If your mural was done with acrylic artist's paint(tubes) this stuff is rather soft and stretchy and can clog your sandpaper easily and be tough as the devil to sand down(oil paint too!).You are much better off changing the drywall.Indoor painting question ?
Wash down the walls. Then lightly sand. Dust them down and then put on a layer of kilz or binz before you paint. When you put on the primer have it tinted in a shade a little lighter than what you are going to use.
you may not like this...sand, sand, sand like a fool. wear a particle mask and eye protection and sand the walls smooth, then you can paint them...there usually is no need for a primer or sealer if the walls have been previously painted and have not water damage and there is no nicotine coating them.
Sand until you have a flat surface.
You could scrape and sand until you have a smooth surface. Messy, time-consuming, but you'll be happy about the result. Be sure to use a good primer before you paint.
Or, you could plaster the walls. It would be worth the money to have a professional do this.
Indoor painting question?
I am painting my kitchen a bright apple green. It's currently the typical eggshell. There is caulking all around the counters etc. (where the wall meets the counter). My question is: Do I paint right up to the counter , over top of the caulking? And if so, do I have to re-do the caulking over it? Or do I stop just before the white caulking and leave the white line?
The caulking itself is in good shape so it's purely asthetics.
Thanks!Indoor painting question?
Hi,
it's more of a prefference, however if it's silicone caulking then you cant paint over it.
The caulking itself is in good shape so it's purely asthetics.
Thanks!Indoor painting question?
Hi,
it's more of a prefference, however if it's silicone caulking then you cant paint over it.
Question about painting my Indoor Pool Room/Exercise Room. Here's the problem..?
The problem is that I'm a DYI-er. I dont want to call someone to come paint something I can do myself. My question is :
Everything I've painted my Indoor Pool/Exercise Room, After about 2-3 months I get these grey patches on my all...Sometimes when I place my hand on the wall a few days later the same place i placed my hand turns into this smoke grey patch. You can't really see it directly at once but once you turn the light on or the sun hits my wall you can cleary see all the patches. Could this be mold?Question about painting my Indoor Pool Room/Exercise Room. Here's the problem..?
Have you tried a heavy duty primer underneath your paint? If so, it could be the type of paint you're using. Question about painting my Indoor Pool Room/Exercise Room. Here's the problem..?
Could this be mold?yes it could be do you have a vent the moisture out for the pool if yes check it . and the paint you want to use a high moisture paint or Marine paint to stop the look
Everything I've painted my Indoor Pool/Exercise Room, After about 2-3 months I get these grey patches on my all...Sometimes when I place my hand on the wall a few days later the same place i placed my hand turns into this smoke grey patch. You can't really see it directly at once but once you turn the light on or the sun hits my wall you can cleary see all the patches. Could this be mold?Question about painting my Indoor Pool Room/Exercise Room. Here's the problem..?
Have you tried a heavy duty primer underneath your paint? If so, it could be the type of paint you're using. Question about painting my Indoor Pool Room/Exercise Room. Here's the problem..?
Could this be mold?yes it could be do you have a vent the moisture out for the pool if yes check it . and the paint you want to use a high moisture paint or Marine paint to stop the look
Is indoor ACRYLIC painting bad for the respiratory?
Is indoor acrylic painting bad for the respiratory system?Is indoor ACRYLIC painting bad for the respiratory?
I don't think breathing any paint fumes is good. My mom gets dizzy after an hour of fumes.
I'd have an open window. I always do when I paint. Or a really large room.
Also, painting outside is always lovely!
I don't think breathing any paint fumes is good. My mom gets dizzy after an hour of fumes.
I'd have an open window. I always do when I paint. Or a really large room.
Also, painting outside is always lovely!
Indoor painting question ?
i want to paint my bedroom walls but over the years there has been 5 layers of paint and 1 layer was a mural so everything is uneven and need ugly, what should i do ?Indoor painting question ?
You could strip off the old paint but that could be a big expensive job.I would use a flat finish paint and roll it on with a texture roller.These come in various finishes and patterns.This will hide most of your uneven spots...Indoor painting question ?
real simple first you sand the walls so that there are no bludges in the walls. then you prime it so you cover up the horrible lloking stuff and then after the paint dries , you paint however you want.
Go to your local hardware or paint store and ask for a primer to even everything out (they are usually pretty thick). Then you can paint on top of the primer as normal.
You could never hand sand that stuff off, and any mechanical method would end up eating into the paper face of your sheetrock, causing a bigger problem.
I use drywall compound (mud) and an 8'; - 12'; blade to smooth it on. Work small areas at a time. When it's dry, I feel it for hollow places or high spots and add or remove (sand) as necessary.
When I'm happy with it, I give it an all-over light sanding, then prime and paint it.
I would give a light sand on rough spots made only by bad paint application, if you use putty or mud, over a large area, it will never be flat and smooth. So just smooth out any ridges or drips or texturizing previously done to it, apply a coat of primer, then two coats of the desired color in acrylic.
easy fix try ralph lauren river rock paint its textured and covers great!!!
that's be a nightmare to try to make those walls perfectly flat again....so you could think about going for a really rough imaginative texture like this: http://www.uniquetextures.com/00281.htm
be sure to rough up any semigloss surfaces
Below are the step-by-step directions that you requested. They are for normal walls, which you don't have. You need to follow the section on applying tape compund or spackle more carefully. The only way to deal with the uneveness is to use the compound at a leveler. Use a wide knife so that you can see how even it is coming out. If they have 12 inch knives, that could be helpful.
If there's not too much unevenness you night try sanding the high spots with 100grit sandpaper then use Spackle to fill in any damage you do then use 150 grit to finish sand the Spackle then prime and paint. If the walls are really bad I'd do what's called a skim coat which means spackling over the whole wall, than sanding flat then priming and painting,this is obviously a lot more work but it will solve the problem. There's a third method which involves going over the walls with a paintable wallpaper, this essentially puts an entirely new face on the walls, again this is more work but would make for a really nice job.
sand smooth then paint
Lowe's and home depot carry wall texture (comes in a spray can) that will mask the uneven texture that is there now. Once it is dry, then you can paint over it. It looks very nice once it is all done and finished. I dont know how badly uneven your walls are, but this stuff is pretty good for masking stuff like that - its worth looking into anyway.
Hope this helps.
you should remove the old paint, either with paint stripper or remover. may even have to do some sanding this is gonna be a long annoying process not to mention messy...good luck with this one
well in order to get rid of the texture left behind from the muraal you'll have to skim coat the wall with joint compound sand and then prime and paintmyspace songs
You could strip off the old paint but that could be a big expensive job.I would use a flat finish paint and roll it on with a texture roller.These come in various finishes and patterns.This will hide most of your uneven spots...Indoor painting question ?
real simple first you sand the walls so that there are no bludges in the walls. then you prime it so you cover up the horrible lloking stuff and then after the paint dries , you paint however you want.
Go to your local hardware or paint store and ask for a primer to even everything out (they are usually pretty thick). Then you can paint on top of the primer as normal.
You could never hand sand that stuff off, and any mechanical method would end up eating into the paper face of your sheetrock, causing a bigger problem.
I use drywall compound (mud) and an 8'; - 12'; blade to smooth it on. Work small areas at a time. When it's dry, I feel it for hollow places or high spots and add or remove (sand) as necessary.
When I'm happy with it, I give it an all-over light sanding, then prime and paint it.
I would give a light sand on rough spots made only by bad paint application, if you use putty or mud, over a large area, it will never be flat and smooth. So just smooth out any ridges or drips or texturizing previously done to it, apply a coat of primer, then two coats of the desired color in acrylic.
easy fix try ralph lauren river rock paint its textured and covers great!!!
that's be a nightmare to try to make those walls perfectly flat again....so you could think about going for a really rough imaginative texture like this: http://www.uniquetextures.com/00281.htm
be sure to rough up any semigloss surfaces
Below are the step-by-step directions that you requested. They are for normal walls, which you don't have. You need to follow the section on applying tape compund or spackle more carefully. The only way to deal with the uneveness is to use the compound at a leveler. Use a wide knife so that you can see how even it is coming out. If they have 12 inch knives, that could be helpful.
If there's not too much unevenness you night try sanding the high spots with 100grit sandpaper then use Spackle to fill in any damage you do then use 150 grit to finish sand the Spackle then prime and paint. If the walls are really bad I'd do what's called a skim coat which means spackling over the whole wall, than sanding flat then priming and painting,this is obviously a lot more work but it will solve the problem. There's a third method which involves going over the walls with a paintable wallpaper, this essentially puts an entirely new face on the walls, again this is more work but would make for a really nice job.
sand smooth then paint
Lowe's and home depot carry wall texture (comes in a spray can) that will mask the uneven texture that is there now. Once it is dry, then you can paint over it. It looks very nice once it is all done and finished. I dont know how badly uneven your walls are, but this stuff is pretty good for masking stuff like that - its worth looking into anyway.
Hope this helps.
you should remove the old paint, either with paint stripper or remover. may even have to do some sanding this is gonna be a long annoying process not to mention messy...good luck with this one
well in order to get rid of the texture left behind from the muraal you'll have to skim coat the wall with joint compound sand and then prime and paint
How do i remove cigarette smoke/tar from indoor painted walls so that i can paint them?
You can use a solution of TSP on the walls (wear rubber gloves) this will take the smoke ';oil'; vapor off the wall. If you have popcorn or stipple ceiling, you can't go over it with TSP, however alot of the smell is in there so it will have to be painted.. Do the ceiling first. with ceiling paint. As a help to reduced the odor, in the can of latex ceiling paint add a half bottle of vanilla extract. That will help to offset the cigarette odor and paint odor. Use the other half in the latex wall paint and plan on 2 coats of paint with overnight to dry between the coats. (Actually, that is the way I would go for the ceiling too) So, paint the ceiling and the walls one day and do it again the next day.How do i remove cigarette smoke/tar from indoor painted walls so that i can paint them?
I thought sure I had all ready posted on this. I will try again.
I used the Dark Dawn detergent on our walls and used a sponged wax mop to wash them down. Then I rinsed them. It took the stain right off. Dawn detergent is a very cheap household cleaner.How do i remove cigarette smoke/tar from indoor painted walls so that i can paint them?
Use TSP. It's a detergent that you can find in the paint section. It's what the pros use. A large sponge will make the work easier.
wash the walls down with TSP and buy special primer to get rid of the smell of smoke
I thought sure I had all ready posted on this. I will try again.
I used the Dark Dawn detergent on our walls and used a sponged wax mop to wash them down. Then I rinsed them. It took the stain right off. Dawn detergent is a very cheap household cleaner.How do i remove cigarette smoke/tar from indoor painted walls so that i can paint them?
Use TSP. It's a detergent that you can find in the paint section. It's what the pros use. A large sponge will make the work easier.
wash the walls down with TSP and buy special primer to get rid of the smell of smoke
I'm painting an indoor parking garage - concrete walls?
I have a few questions on this...
1 - 75% of the wall space is in excellent condition but there are parts that are flaking with whatever was on there previously...how do I smooth that flaking surface? ...sanding or otherwise?
2 - There is another part of the concrete wall that looks like pieces of the concrete have chipped away in chunks, maybe a little bit less than an inch deep on the wall. How do I refinish/smooth that concrete surface to be smooth?
3 - I have to price the job itself. The area is about 21,000 square feet..maybe a 60-70 car indoor parking garage. There are 24 structure columns to paint as well but they are all in good shape and can be painted easily. How do I price this job?
Thanks!I'm painting an indoor parking garage - concrete walls?
Here is what you do:
#1. Figure up the exact square footage of the wall surfaces you need to paint. Go to a professional paint store such as Porter Paints, Sherwin Williams and tell them what you are painting, which is concrete. Have them figure up the gallons of paint you will need. Buy in 5 gallon pails. Ask for a contractors discount on all materials.
#2. For a good job I would powerwash the walls and columns. Ask the same paint store for a good cleaning solution to power wash these items with. You also could possibly rent a power washer off of them.
#3. Price the paint for the steel columns also.
#4. Check the garage (job site) to make sure you have water source to power wash, and electrical outlet to run compressor if you plan to spray on the paint on the concrete/steel.
#5. Are there going to be cars in the garage, or is the owner of the garage going to give notice to those parking there that the garage is to be closed during this painting? This is a big deal for you. You can't make good time if cars are close to the walls and columns. I can guarantee you someone is going to complain about dirt and or paint on their car - so check this out first before you give them a price.
#6. Is there a place to store your materials on the job?
#7. You can fill the concrete spalls with mortar mix but first prime the holes with a bonding agent such as *thorobond. Let it dry than take a small margin trowel and apply mortar mix to the hole-smooth out let dry - do this after you powerwash the walls.
#8. To price the job figure how long it will take you to round up all the materials and equipment and transport it to the job. Then estimate how long it will take to set up powerwasher and wash all the walls and columns/rinse also. Now figure the hours it will take to patch the spalls or impressions in the concrete walls. Now figure how long it would take you to spray or roll paint on all the walls. *Include time to put dropcloths over any cars close by.
#9. Now you have to paint 24 columns. Can you paint one column in 2hrs? Picture yourself painting one column - how long will it take you. Now just multiply that x 24 to get man hours. Each day you must pick up and clean up the jobsite - add 1 hour each day just for getting stuff ready and putting it away at the end of the day.
#10. Now take the total cost of your materials with tax. Multiply that by 20% then add the 20%. You have to make money on materials.
Then take your total man hours you already figured x $25 per hour. Now add 15% to cover overhead such as gas,taxes,fidc,medicare,workmens comp,*even if you don't pay these things most of your competitors do so add it in.
Now after you add your 15% to your labor take that total x 10%, this is your profit for the job.
Now add your materials with markup, to your total labor cost to get a grand total. This is the price you write on your proposal.
*State everything that you are going to do on this job. The more items you list, the more detailed your proposal looks = a more professional image.
* check out if the cars are going to be in the garage , this is a big thing.
Good LuckI'm painting an indoor parking garage - concrete walls?
ted ruski got it right but dont patch with mortar, use portland cement and masons sand and mix it stiff and force into the spalls...
Extremely obvious you have no (zero) experience in this. Get someone that knows what they are doing to assist with this one or else you are going to lose your shirt. Surface prep is the most important part of the job. The two problems you mentioned are just a couple of the dozen or more you will run into getting the surface ready for paint. HINT: parking garages walls and ceilings get greasy dirty from car exhaust, you have to clean all this off or the paint will not stay on. Actual painting is probably less than 1/3 to 1/4 of the actual job. You need an adviser to help choose the different ways of cleaning that you will need to do.
1 - 75% of the wall space is in excellent condition but there are parts that are flaking with whatever was on there previously...how do I smooth that flaking surface? ...sanding or otherwise?
2 - There is another part of the concrete wall that looks like pieces of the concrete have chipped away in chunks, maybe a little bit less than an inch deep on the wall. How do I refinish/smooth that concrete surface to be smooth?
3 - I have to price the job itself. The area is about 21,000 square feet..maybe a 60-70 car indoor parking garage. There are 24 structure columns to paint as well but they are all in good shape and can be painted easily. How do I price this job?
Thanks!I'm painting an indoor parking garage - concrete walls?
Here is what you do:
#1. Figure up the exact square footage of the wall surfaces you need to paint. Go to a professional paint store such as Porter Paints, Sherwin Williams and tell them what you are painting, which is concrete. Have them figure up the gallons of paint you will need. Buy in 5 gallon pails. Ask for a contractors discount on all materials.
#2. For a good job I would powerwash the walls and columns. Ask the same paint store for a good cleaning solution to power wash these items with. You also could possibly rent a power washer off of them.
#3. Price the paint for the steel columns also.
#4. Check the garage (job site) to make sure you have water source to power wash, and electrical outlet to run compressor if you plan to spray on the paint on the concrete/steel.
#5. Are there going to be cars in the garage, or is the owner of the garage going to give notice to those parking there that the garage is to be closed during this painting? This is a big deal for you. You can't make good time if cars are close to the walls and columns. I can guarantee you someone is going to complain about dirt and or paint on their car - so check this out first before you give them a price.
#6. Is there a place to store your materials on the job?
#7. You can fill the concrete spalls with mortar mix but first prime the holes with a bonding agent such as *thorobond. Let it dry than take a small margin trowel and apply mortar mix to the hole-smooth out let dry - do this after you powerwash the walls.
#8. To price the job figure how long it will take you to round up all the materials and equipment and transport it to the job. Then estimate how long it will take to set up powerwasher and wash all the walls and columns/rinse also. Now figure the hours it will take to patch the spalls or impressions in the concrete walls. Now figure how long it would take you to spray or roll paint on all the walls. *Include time to put dropcloths over any cars close by.
#9. Now you have to paint 24 columns. Can you paint one column in 2hrs? Picture yourself painting one column - how long will it take you. Now just multiply that x 24 to get man hours. Each day you must pick up and clean up the jobsite - add 1 hour each day just for getting stuff ready and putting it away at the end of the day.
#10. Now take the total cost of your materials with tax. Multiply that by 20% then add the 20%. You have to make money on materials.
Then take your total man hours you already figured x $25 per hour. Now add 15% to cover overhead such as gas,taxes,fidc,medicare,workmens comp,*even if you don't pay these things most of your competitors do so add it in.
Now after you add your 15% to your labor take that total x 10%, this is your profit for the job.
Now add your materials with markup, to your total labor cost to get a grand total. This is the price you write on your proposal.
*State everything that you are going to do on this job. The more items you list, the more detailed your proposal looks = a more professional image.
* check out if the cars are going to be in the garage , this is a big thing.
Good LuckI'm painting an indoor parking garage - concrete walls?
ted ruski got it right but dont patch with mortar, use portland cement and masons sand and mix it stiff and force into the spalls...
Extremely obvious you have no (zero) experience in this. Get someone that knows what they are doing to assist with this one or else you are going to lose your shirt. Surface prep is the most important part of the job. The two problems you mentioned are just a couple of the dozen or more you will run into getting the surface ready for paint. HINT: parking garages walls and ceilings get greasy dirty from car exhaust, you have to clean all this off or the paint will not stay on. Actual painting is probably less than 1/3 to 1/4 of the actual job. You need an adviser to help choose the different ways of cleaning that you will need to do.
Question about painting my Indoor Pool Room/Exercise Room. Here's the problem..?
The problem is that I'm a DYI-er. I dont want to call someone to come paint something I can do myself. My question is :
Everything I've painted my Indoor Pool/Exercise Room, After about 2-3 months I get these grey patches on my all...Sometimes when I place my hand on the wall a few days later the same place i placed my hand turns into this smoke grey patch. You can't really see it directly at once but once you turn the light on or the sun hits my wall you can cleary see all the patches. Could this be mold?Question about painting my Indoor Pool Room/Exercise Room. Here's the problem..?
Initial impression is its mold, but I have a few questions. By Pool, do you mean swimming pool or pool table? Is this in a basement? Is it air conditioned? Exterior or interior walls? Drywall or concrete block? If you spray chlorox/water solution on it, does it go away?
Everything I've painted my Indoor Pool/Exercise Room, After about 2-3 months I get these grey patches on my all...Sometimes when I place my hand on the wall a few days later the same place i placed my hand turns into this smoke grey patch. You can't really see it directly at once but once you turn the light on or the sun hits my wall you can cleary see all the patches. Could this be mold?Question about painting my Indoor Pool Room/Exercise Room. Here's the problem..?
Initial impression is its mold, but I have a few questions. By Pool, do you mean swimming pool or pool table? Is this in a basement? Is it air conditioned? Exterior or interior walls? Drywall or concrete block? If you spray chlorox/water solution on it, does it go away?
Is it safe indoor semi gloss paints during pregnancy?
Do you mean is it safe for you to paint with indoor seimi gloss paint? Yeah it is I asked my dr this question during my pregnancy. We were remodeling when I got pregnant and I ended up painting 3 rooms throughout my pregnancy.Is it safe indoor semi gloss paints during pregnancy?
I painted my 5 y/o daughter's room during my last pregnancy. Just make sure you ventilate the room well. The fumes make me a bit nauseous, but there is little or no effect on your baby. Always confer with you OB/GYN just to be sure.Is it safe indoor semi gloss paints during pregnancy?
Yes it is I have been glossing the doors and I am 24 weeks pregnant
look i dont know who you people have for doctors it is NOT SAFE the paint has fums that have been known to make pregnant wemen go into premature labor.and my source is my sister in law who had a preme while painting the inside of her house with semi gloss interior
I used to work for a OB doctor and she would tll her pts. that is is fine as long as you have good ventilation going through the room-make sure to open windows and wear a mask
It's safe. Just have a lot of ventilation and if you feel whoozy, take a break and get some fresh air.
any kind of paint isn't really a good idea to be around when you are pregnant. It is just best not to be around it when someone is painting just in case. It is better to be safe than sorry.
Absolutely...just make sure to crack some windows so that you are not breathing in all the pain fumes
It smells but it isn't toxic. I would worry more about making you feel nausea.
I painted my 5 y/o daughter's room during my last pregnancy. Just make sure you ventilate the room well. The fumes make me a bit nauseous, but there is little or no effect on your baby. Always confer with you OB/GYN just to be sure.Is it safe indoor semi gloss paints during pregnancy?
Yes it is I have been glossing the doors and I am 24 weeks pregnant
look i dont know who you people have for doctors it is NOT SAFE the paint has fums that have been known to make pregnant wemen go into premature labor.and my source is my sister in law who had a preme while painting the inside of her house with semi gloss interior
I used to work for a OB doctor and she would tll her pts. that is is fine as long as you have good ventilation going through the room-make sure to open windows and wear a mask
It's safe. Just have a lot of ventilation and if you feel whoozy, take a break and get some fresh air.
any kind of paint isn't really a good idea to be around when you are pregnant. It is just best not to be around it when someone is painting just in case. It is better to be safe than sorry.
Absolutely...just make sure to crack some windows so that you are not breathing in all the pain fumes
It smells but it isn't toxic. I would worry more about making you feel nausea.
Indoor latex painting with spray gun?
I have a 1/2hp spray gun system that I'm thinking about using to paint my living room. Is this overkill, will cause me more pain then use?
I was thinking that the alternative would be to buy a 50 buck airless paint sprayer and use that for all the trim work and then use a roller for bulk of the walls.
Problem is that there is a lot of crown molding etc that I can't get at will the roller and I don't want to spend days using a brush on it so I want some kind of power based alternative.Indoor latex painting with spray gun?
It will take more time to spray the room with an airless than it would to brush and roll.
Airless sprayers are good if you are in a new construction situation where there is not a lot of masking off. Even in a new construction situation, you wouldn't go to the airless unless you are going to spray 10 or 15 gallons of paint. The airless is a production tool for applying larger quantities of paint. Don't bother for the 3-4 gallons you will need for the living room.
Just so you are aware- you not only have to mask off for direct overspray - but indirect overspray. Atomized paint from an airless will float in the air and drift all over the house.
The $50 cup guns are also airless sprayers, not HVLP (high volume low pressure), and you will have similar overspray issues to deal with - with them also.
I would brush and roll the room.Indoor latex painting with spray gun?
Brush and roll only
Take the time and effort to do it right. You won't regret it.
If it was me I'd get an HVLP High Volume Low Pressure system, that's what I would use for crown molding, inside corners etc. You can get a good system for about half what you plan to spend but the little one I have is fine for use around the house.
The old fashioned (to me) high pressure systems allow too much overspray, wasting paint and are just a big mess to deal with.
Your idea to roll the bulk areas is a good one. Do NOT go cheap on brushes and rollers, the cheap stuff do a crummy job and gets paint all over the place.
Wrap your brushes, rollers and trays with saran wrap if you are going to use them again within a couple days, saving lots of time on cleanup.
I've also found the cloth type drop cloths to be the way to go as apposed to paper or plastic (easier to deal with and last a heck of a lot longer) when your through with them and drops have dried, fold them up and store for next time, you know there will be again. They come in handy for other things too like protecting areas or furniture when remodeling or moving. They don't take up that much room.
I was thinking that the alternative would be to buy a 50 buck airless paint sprayer and use that for all the trim work and then use a roller for bulk of the walls.
Problem is that there is a lot of crown molding etc that I can't get at will the roller and I don't want to spend days using a brush on it so I want some kind of power based alternative.Indoor latex painting with spray gun?
It will take more time to spray the room with an airless than it would to brush and roll.
Airless sprayers are good if you are in a new construction situation where there is not a lot of masking off. Even in a new construction situation, you wouldn't go to the airless unless you are going to spray 10 or 15 gallons of paint. The airless is a production tool for applying larger quantities of paint. Don't bother for the 3-4 gallons you will need for the living room.
Just so you are aware- you not only have to mask off for direct overspray - but indirect overspray. Atomized paint from an airless will float in the air and drift all over the house.
The $50 cup guns are also airless sprayers, not HVLP (high volume low pressure), and you will have similar overspray issues to deal with - with them also.
I would brush and roll the room.Indoor latex painting with spray gun?
Brush and roll only
Take the time and effort to do it right. You won't regret it.
If it was me I'd get an HVLP High Volume Low Pressure system, that's what I would use for crown molding, inside corners etc. You can get a good system for about half what you plan to spend but the little one I have is fine for use around the house.
The old fashioned (to me) high pressure systems allow too much overspray, wasting paint and are just a big mess to deal with.
Your idea to roll the bulk areas is a good one. Do NOT go cheap on brushes and rollers, the cheap stuff do a crummy job and gets paint all over the place.
Wrap your brushes, rollers and trays with saran wrap if you are going to use them again within a couple days, saving lots of time on cleanup.
I've also found the cloth type drop cloths to be the way to go as apposed to paper or plastic (easier to deal with and last a heck of a lot longer) when your through with them and drops have dried, fold them up and store for next time, you know there will be again. They come in handy for other things too like protecting areas or furniture when remodeling or moving. They don't take up that much room.
Indoor trim and molding painted black.?
Is this a new trend (instead of white) and do you like it?Indoor trim and molding painted black.?
Sure.why NOt? If you live in the Adams Family house. Why would you want to paint your trim and moulding black for any other reason than becuase you are bored? Try something else...some color that actually needs creatice thinking to make work.Indoor trim and molding painted black.?
I've never personally seen it, but I think it's a pretty cool idea. You may even think about painting them some other color...a dark blue...ooh, or even a brick red! :o)
No I do not like it. I myself like the nutcharl look of wood for the trim, I hate painted trim.
I did mine six years ago.
Sounds very, very ugly. It will look dated in no time. I don't recommend it.
as a painting contractor who works with designers on a daily baisis I can say with certianty that it is not a new trend , and is usually used in ultra contemporary homes,and then only in certian cases,and rooms where there is need for a large sense of drama.myspace songs
Sure.why NOt? If you live in the Adams Family house. Why would you want to paint your trim and moulding black for any other reason than becuase you are bored? Try something else...some color that actually needs creatice thinking to make work.Indoor trim and molding painted black.?
I've never personally seen it, but I think it's a pretty cool idea. You may even think about painting them some other color...a dark blue...ooh, or even a brick red! :o)
No I do not like it. I myself like the nutcharl look of wood for the trim, I hate painted trim.
I did mine six years ago.
Sounds very, very ugly. It will look dated in no time. I don't recommend it.
as a painting contractor who works with designers on a daily baisis I can say with certianty that it is not a new trend , and is usually used in ultra contemporary homes,and then only in certian cases,and rooms where there is need for a large sense of drama.
Best paint/primer/polyurethane for an indoor plywood table?
I am painting a plywood table blue with white stripes.
How would you suggest to go about my work. The table is staying inside, but will see a lot of moisture and liquid.
I plan on applying polyurethane to 'waterproof' the wood and make it slick and durable. Any tips/advice there?Best paint/primer/polyurethane for an indoor plywood table?
Use oil-based kilz-it as your primer and apply with small sponge roller. Let dry and paint the whole thing white with your white paint(2 coats). When that dries tape off for your blue stripes using blue painter's tape. Paint the edges of the tape on the side that will be blue with your white paint. Thiss will prevent the blue from bleeding onto the white side. Wait 30 minutes or so until the white paint is dry and paint your blue stripes. After second coat remove the tape. Let paint cure for 24 hours.
Seal with a water-based poly in your choice of sheens. Wait about an hour between coats and apply at least 3. 1 quart of poly should be enough. Place brush in a ziplock bag between coats to keep it from drying out.
Oil-based poly will yellow with light so be sure to use a water-based.
How would you suggest to go about my work. The table is staying inside, but will see a lot of moisture and liquid.
I plan on applying polyurethane to 'waterproof' the wood and make it slick and durable. Any tips/advice there?Best paint/primer/polyurethane for an indoor plywood table?
Use oil-based kilz-it as your primer and apply with small sponge roller. Let dry and paint the whole thing white with your white paint(2 coats). When that dries tape off for your blue stripes using blue painter's tape. Paint the edges of the tape on the side that will be blue with your white paint. Thiss will prevent the blue from bleeding onto the white side. Wait 30 minutes or so until the white paint is dry and paint your blue stripes. After second coat remove the tape. Let paint cure for 24 hours.
Seal with a water-based poly in your choice of sheens. Wait about an hour between coats and apply at least 3. 1 quart of poly should be enough. Place brush in a ziplock bag between coats to keep it from drying out.
Oil-based poly will yellow with light so be sure to use a water-based.
I have patched some holes in an indoor wall with cement. How long do I need to wait to dry before painting?
The deepest cavity filled with cement is about 1.5 inches, the rest were only small holes. I want to put a plaster hole filling product over the cement also before I paint. Is 2 days long enough for the cement to be dry enough?I have patched some holes in an indoor wall with cement. How long do I need to wait to dry before painting?
It really depends on the weather where you are..
With that said 2 days is good but I would wait a week on that thicker one. You dont want it cracking after you put plaster over it.I have patched some holes in an indoor wall with cement. How long do I need to wait to dry before painting?
It takes 28 days for cement to cure! But however if it looks wet don't paint! However 2 days seems plenty of time but dont forget to prime it !
You can kind of tell by looking at it. It will look darker, like it's damp, in spots until it's fully cured. I would say 2 days is when it would be the earliest you could work on that surface.
It really depends on the weather where you are..
With that said 2 days is good but I would wait a week on that thicker one. You dont want it cracking after you put plaster over it.I have patched some holes in an indoor wall with cement. How long do I need to wait to dry before painting?
It takes 28 days for cement to cure! But however if it looks wet don't paint! However 2 days seems plenty of time but dont forget to prime it !
You can kind of tell by looking at it. It will look darker, like it's damp, in spots until it's fully cured. I would say 2 days is when it would be the earliest you could work on that surface.
Indoor birds and interior painting?
I am having the interior of my house painted walls and doors/trim. I am worried about the birds being in the house during this. Not so much the wall paint as it is very low odor but the enamel. Any Suggestions?Indoor birds and interior painting?
have 3 large birds and one medium.do ok with painting.never had a problem.Indoor birds and interior painting?
I'd remove the birds until the paint is dry, and the odor is gone. Not only will the odor be dangerous, loose and flying feathers could get stuck in the paint.
have 3 large birds and one medium.do ok with painting.never had a problem.Indoor birds and interior painting?
I'd remove the birds until the paint is dry, and the odor is gone. Not only will the odor be dangerous, loose and flying feathers could get stuck in the paint.
Indoor painting question ?
i want to paint my bedroom walls but over the years there has been 5 layers of paint and 1 layer was a mural so everything is uneven and need ugly, what should i do ?Indoor painting question ?
Step 1: Sand. Using a medium to fine grit sandpaper, sand down all uneven patches to make the wall nice and smooth. Wipe down the wall with a damp rag to remove all excess dust.
Step 2: Patch. Use a spackle (Drydex works well, it goes on pink and turns white when dry) to patch up any cracks or pinholes in wall. You may need a wall patch to fill any holes larger than a quarter. When the spackle is dry, sand the patches down to be flush with the wall.
Step 3: Prep. Wash the walls well to remove any excess dust, dirt, etc. Tape up any areas that you do NOT want to paint, such as trim, ceiling, outlets, etc. Cover the floor and any furniture that cannot be removed from the room with a tarp or drop cloth. I wouldn't recommend using an old sheet as the paint can seep through the cloth. Thick paper or plastic is your best bet.
Step 4: Prime. Using a good primer, coat the walls once, possibly twice, if going over dark colors, to even out the color. If you are painting the walls with a dark color paint, you may need to use a tinted primer. The person who mixes your color should be able to tell you if you need it or not. (I like Glidden's Gripper primer. Be careful, if you get any primer on your skin, to wash your hands before the stuff dries on because it is difficult to get off. Hence the name, Gripper. I recommend gloves!) Wait approximately 4-6 hours for the primer to dry.
Step 5: Paint. Use the roller first, and make a W in the center of the wall. Fill in the wall evenly from the center working outwards toward the trim. Once the wall is covered with a first coat, use a good quality brush to coat the corners and around the trim. (Please remember: synthetic bristles for latex paint, natural bristles for oil paint, natural bristles soak up the water in latex paint, which turns the brush into a mop, and makes an ugly wall) Wait for the first coat to dry (it will look blotchy!) then repeat step 5 as much as necessary to give the wall a nice, even finish. Two coats USUALLY does it, but you may need more depending on the color.
Yes, it's a timely process, but it's worth it if it's done right.Indoor painting question ?
They make a paintable wallpaper that is specially made to go under paint on rough walls. It is a very heavy paper and is sold at Lowes and Home Depot.
buy a filler primer..... then sand it down....follow the directions...
It might help if you put a base coat on , such as Kilz. Then use a faux painting technique that is very forgiving to uneven wall surfaces. Home Depot has a lot of free information on faux painting in the painting department.
INCLUDE A PAINT TEXTURE IN YOUR PAINT WHICH WILL COVER ALOT OF THE UNEVENESS U SEE.
Large mud knife and mud or spakle sand kiltz and paint 2 thin coats better than one thick.
you can try try stripping it with the aid of a heat gun and scraper, or a skim of plaster could do the job. No matter what make sure you got a goo base surface before you start painting. Make sure that the paint you're putting on is compatible with the surface. Me more help e-mail me nl_dwayne@yahoo.com
Step 1: Sand. Using a medium to fine grit sandpaper, sand down all uneven patches to make the wall nice and smooth. Wipe down the wall with a damp rag to remove all excess dust.
Step 2: Patch. Use a spackle (Drydex works well, it goes on pink and turns white when dry) to patch up any cracks or pinholes in wall. You may need a wall patch to fill any holes larger than a quarter. When the spackle is dry, sand the patches down to be flush with the wall.
Step 3: Prep. Wash the walls well to remove any excess dust, dirt, etc. Tape up any areas that you do NOT want to paint, such as trim, ceiling, outlets, etc. Cover the floor and any furniture that cannot be removed from the room with a tarp or drop cloth. I wouldn't recommend using an old sheet as the paint can seep through the cloth. Thick paper or plastic is your best bet.
Step 4: Prime. Using a good primer, coat the walls once, possibly twice, if going over dark colors, to even out the color. If you are painting the walls with a dark color paint, you may need to use a tinted primer. The person who mixes your color should be able to tell you if you need it or not. (I like Glidden's Gripper primer. Be careful, if you get any primer on your skin, to wash your hands before the stuff dries on because it is difficult to get off. Hence the name, Gripper. I recommend gloves!) Wait approximately 4-6 hours for the primer to dry.
Step 5: Paint. Use the roller first, and make a W in the center of the wall. Fill in the wall evenly from the center working outwards toward the trim. Once the wall is covered with a first coat, use a good quality brush to coat the corners and around the trim. (Please remember: synthetic bristles for latex paint, natural bristles for oil paint, natural bristles soak up the water in latex paint, which turns the brush into a mop, and makes an ugly wall) Wait for the first coat to dry (it will look blotchy!) then repeat step 5 as much as necessary to give the wall a nice, even finish. Two coats USUALLY does it, but you may need more depending on the color.
Yes, it's a timely process, but it's worth it if it's done right.Indoor painting question ?
They make a paintable wallpaper that is specially made to go under paint on rough walls. It is a very heavy paper and is sold at Lowes and Home Depot.
buy a filler primer..... then sand it down....follow the directions...
It might help if you put a base coat on , such as Kilz. Then use a faux painting technique that is very forgiving to uneven wall surfaces. Home Depot has a lot of free information on faux painting in the painting department.
INCLUDE A PAINT TEXTURE IN YOUR PAINT WHICH WILL COVER ALOT OF THE UNEVENESS U SEE.
Large mud knife and mud or spakle sand kiltz and paint 2 thin coats better than one thick.
you can try try stripping it with the aid of a heat gun and scraper, or a skim of plaster could do the job. No matter what make sure you got a goo base surface before you start painting. Make sure that the paint you're putting on is compatible with the surface. Me more help e-mail me nl_dwayne@yahoo.com
How about sealing painted wood for indoor use?I've tried Mod Podge,but it never seems to dry and is very stiky
Have you tried Varathane (brand name) or other shellacs, varnishes or epoxies? They tend to create a hard smooth clear finish that is perfect for protecting wood.How about sealing painted wood for indoor use?I've tried Mod Podge,but it never seems to dry and is very stiky
If it isn't too big, you can clear coat with spray paint.
If it isn't too big, you can clear coat with spray paint.
Is keeping three male Chinese Painted quails in a indoor cage acceptable over the winter months?
The three males are brothers of around 6 weeks. Will they get along, or will they begin to fight once they mature?
The bird cage in mind is 23 inches long, 16 inches wide and 27 inches tall. Is this too small to keep a quail in for winter housing.
I also hopefully getting hold of an old chicken house and run in one type and was wondering whether this would be suitable accomidation, and weather the quails are able to live in this during winter outside.
Hope someone has the knowledge to help.Is keeping three male Chinese Painted quails in a indoor cage acceptable over the winter months?
it is very small for 3 quails. If you can, provide them with a much larger one. No problem to keep all three together over winter, they might fight if you had females but alone, they won'tIs keeping three male Chinese Painted quails in a indoor cage acceptable over the winter months?
These are tiny delicate birds, and not the brightest. I am not certain that they will do well outdoors in winter in any climates other than very mild ones. This forum has quite a bit of information about Coturnix: http://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/vi鈥?/a>myspace songs
The bird cage in mind is 23 inches long, 16 inches wide and 27 inches tall. Is this too small to keep a quail in for winter housing.
I also hopefully getting hold of an old chicken house and run in one type and was wondering whether this would be suitable accomidation, and weather the quails are able to live in this during winter outside.
Hope someone has the knowledge to help.Is keeping three male Chinese Painted quails in a indoor cage acceptable over the winter months?
it is very small for 3 quails. If you can, provide them with a much larger one. No problem to keep all three together over winter, they might fight if you had females but alone, they won'tIs keeping three male Chinese Painted quails in a indoor cage acceptable over the winter months?
These are tiny delicate birds, and not the brightest. I am not certain that they will do well outdoors in winter in any climates other than very mild ones. This forum has quite a bit of information about Coturnix: http://www.backyardchickens.com/forum/vi鈥?/a>
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